Sunday the 24th of February I flew from Bristol to Amsterdam with easyJet. For undisclosed and, going by quite a bit of experience rather out of the ordinary, reasons why the plane was 45 minutes late on departure. Unpleasant, but given it’s the railways in The Netherlands I needed to bring me to Arnhem from Schiphol Airport, rather than British operators as in the Bristol area, there was no reason for panic as Dutch trains run through the night. In Arnhem even bus number one, an electric trolley bus service with modern articulated equipment, was still there to take me onwards to Oosterbeek. My mother’s house in Oosterbeek is situated higher up the North shore of the Northern branch of the lower Rhine river and overlooks the area with the 10th Century church, where in August 1944 the scant remains of the British paratroops that fought the Battle of Arnhem crept along wires, set up by the resistance, to the Rhine river bank in the darkness to cross back to safety (some drowning in the process, talk about fate being cynical). Funny how the Battle of Arnhem profoundly coloured my youth: for many years us school kids standing to attention at one of the many grave stones in the Airborne cemetery, to honour the dead every August. Due to being accidentally present when a body was being retrieved from an overlooked field grave, a few quite well aware of what was under such a stone. Regularly finding bits and pieces of ammunition and using the “doubles” to exchange with friends for other or “better” bits (so many shards for one recognisable bit, such as tail fins or a complete item). Setting up intricate patterns with gunpowder from opened up bullets, just to set it alight with that weird, blinding flash. A few friends who blew up their bedrooms or family’s garages, who lost fingers, eyesight or even their lives whilst “cleaning” the bits we found (light hammering with a small peen ball hammer beautifully cleaned flaking rust from a mortar grenade or its shards). Then there was the exciting find of a characteristic barrel -complete with the fire suppressor at the end- of a German 20 mm flak (not flack, incidentally, it was a FLugzeug Abwehr Kanone) four-barrel rapid fire anti-aircraft cannon, that we dug up from the meadow opposite our house. Later we found some of the heavy wheels of the turntable; I “traded” those wheels; that barrel now is a lamp post in someone’s garden. When fairly recently part of the railway embankment leading up to the railway bridge crossing the Rhine near Oosterbeek was dug up, to be replaced with extended land bridges in order to widen the opening and allow the river more space when in spate, some 2,500 various pieces of ordnance -mainly unexploded- came out of the dirt. The Explosives Disposal Branch of the Army must have had field days. Away from their offices and barracks (lovely, I know from my military draft days in 1976/77) for a considerable time; finally feeling useful and being able to tell good stories at home about what mortal dangers they dealt with today! When my friends and I found stuff in that river area during the days that it finally had got through to our feeble teenager brains that it actually was quite dangerous to bring it home, we collected what we found along a path somewhere. One of us then went home to call the police and returned full pelt. After some time, there they were in their dark blue absurdly non-dangerous or impressive looking old type of Volkswagen Beetle with a single blue flashlight on top. Those guys usually were in quite a surly mood; they knew the rules called for them thanking us to call them out instead of blowing ourselves up, where they’d have liked to have kicked our backsides and tell us to not venture into such a dangerous area again. That was because ammo, after all very liberally spread during those days of havoc in 1944, still was around everywhere in those years: it was just that when the river had been in spate the water current washed off the dirt and brought the bits and pieces into view, often at the bottom of water courses. So not only did the officers now have to drive back with four or five rusty mortar grenades rolling around on their back seat, on top of a fuel tank next to the famously rear-mounted four-cylinder Volkswagen boxer-engine, but the worst was they knew the same would happen again next weekend or so. And no doubt they didn’t look forward to (this after all again is The Netherlands, country of sticky public red tape) the administrative bit of writing out the report and getting the army to come over to pick up the stuff and dispose of it. That, I now realise, must have been irritatingly time consuming in pre-email (with attached pics for scrutiny) days of typewriters. Where mistakes could not be quickly deleted, but had to be laboriously erased and rewritten again. Something else over there; along the riverside road between Arnhem and Oosterbeek there still is a quite a touching monument to those days when commies were proper commies that you were allowed to hate because they simply were bad. There is the cupola of an M4 “Sherman” tank, concreted in and nowadays minus its gun barrel, yet still overlooking the Rhine railway bridge. That, incidentally, also is The Netherlands (this time in its military glory); reusing the noisy bit of an obsolete Sherman tank from ex-US Army war dumps. Cheap and cheerful, as my good friend Jim Vine used to say when discussing the characteristics of UK British Rail (Southern Region) electric rolling stock. Seeing this cold war relic does tend to excite visiting British and American friends no end, though. And not only the younger ones! Perhaps I should organise a few days of trekking through the area. Anyway, on Tuesday I visited Maastricht to meet representatives of “Op De Rails” (on the tracks), the magazine of the Netherlands rail fan organisation NVBS. The magazine will publish a condensed version of the Baldwin Westinghouse book in two articles of 4,000 words each. The main problem is not actually telling the story in 8,000 words from the 42,000 I wrote; it’s finding the necessary illustrations. So anyone who just happens to have pictures (or friends, relatives or acquaintances with pictures) of US Northern East Coast electric railway issues, please let me know. Names: Virginian Railway, Norfolk & Western Railway, Pennsylvania Railroad and New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad (the New Haven). Wednesday I travelled to Hannover from Arnhem. Not via the “Dutch” route via Deventer and Hengelo (missed the plinthed class 44 1’E / 2-10-0 at Rheine in Germany this time) but from Arnhem on the Frankfurt/Main ICE3 service via Zevenaar, Emmerich and Oberhausen to Duisburg and change there for the long trip on a ICE2 set directly to Hannover. That is the service from Munich to Berlin that, using an ICE1 set (saw one of those, incidentally, they’re still around) crashed at 200 km/h or 125 mph in 1999 at Eschede with 101 dead and 96 wounded. Something else: much of interest to those who look carefully is the amount of growth hidden rail history all over Germany. Old steam time roundhouses? Several of those. Trackless former flyover ramps, lightly hidden abandoned yards, sometimes with old rolling stock. En route on the way back a shiny and well cared for light 1’E / 2-10-0 class 050 plinthed somewhere in a meadow that once used to be a yard. What I thought was pleasantly strange was that in a number of places I discovered diesel- and electric locomotives that I thought were history, being in full daily service. Not only that, I noticed a 1944 vintage Swiss electric Re4/4 I Bo’Bo’ locomotive (same 15 kV 16.65 Hz AC voltage as in Germany) in obviously healthy working order amidst some pre-war passenger rolling stock: specials are a big thing too in Germany. On the other side: there were bitter complaints about the state of maintenance and the concomitant worn looks of infrastructure like bridges and stations. Duisburg Hbf was a pretty bad example: the train shed steel was covered in rust and half the glass in it was only there because the broken panes had been taped together. Bucharest Nord Station in Romania indeed looked far better than that. In fact, except in Belgrade in Serbia, I had not seen such decay anywhere in still seriously impoverished Eastern European countries. I read in the Neue Hannover Zeitung that for the coming period the German government had 10.4 Bn Euro set aside to do up a number of stations; high time indeed. I returned on Friday along the same route with the same type of ICE sets and saw the brand new Swiss built Stadler four-car EMU’s for the Rhein-Ruhr Express at Duisburg Hbf, operated by one of the ventures of Netherlands Railways subsidiary Abellio. Stadler in Bussnang, Switzerland, has worked itself in twenty years up from a local Swiss carriage builder to build an immense lot of multiple-unit railcars. In North-Western Europe they are very obvious all over the place. These RRX units were different, though; no articulated configuration as usual, the single deck end cars were the Bo’Bo’ traction vehicles, whereas the two 2’2′ intermediate vehicles were un-powered double deck trailers. The livery was nice, nothing like the yellow and blue that Netherlands railways uses at home. Incidentally, Abellio recently introduced Stadler built dual power (diesel- and full electric) EMU’s in the UK as well. If I was the National Enquirer I’d be writing about something hot and totally licentious developing between Swiss and Dutch interests here. Saturday I travelled to Zwijndrecht to meet one of the readers of this blog. Their home is on the eight floor overlooking the river Oude Maas, with the city of Dordrecht on the opposite shore. It is one of these places where I’d forever sit at the window watching shipping (in similar other cases trains, or planes) come past. From their kitchen window one can see the confluence of the river Noord coming in from Rotterdam and meeting the Oude Maas, continuing as the Merwede (mispronounced by me after the years abroad) Eastwards: that view is completely riveting. It makes me long to once again book a place on a river-cruise and just sit watching the world pass by (red wine on hand) through the plate glass windows. The evening was spent in Ede with the man who keeps me on the rails when writing, especially when in Dutch. He made me realise in an early stage that after thirty years in the UK the idea that I could write literary Dutch simply was an ambition too far, using the expression “Dunglish” as an indication of the deterioration. I worked seriously on regaining what I thought of as a decent fluency when writing my mother tongue, but then the two gentlemen representing the Op de Rails magazine in Maastricht made it clear that the editor would be making present day Dutch out of it. Undeniably that is less than pleasant to hear, but I look forward to seeing where my seventies Dutch differs from that of the year 2019. Free language lessons after all, I still am enough of a Hollander to appreciate not spending money on it. Sunday and Monday were spent with my mother, who greeted me on arrival back home with “hello stranger”. Unexpectedly powerful sense of humour and I knew that I had pushed it this time. Tuesday the 5th I travelled to Schiphol to fly home again. The presently four-tracked railway line between Utrecht and Amsterdam skirts the Amsterdam-Rhine Canal for a considerable distance, giving a pleasant view of the inland waterway traffic to and from the port of Amsterdam. For the first time ever I actually saw a serious push tow, with a massive push tug shoving it, using the canal. I wondered previously if that was actually possible; that morning it was clear that it is. The flight (a British registered easyJet A319; a number of their planes at Schiphol as well as at Bristol Lulsgate now carried an Austrian registration) was dead on time and the flight mostly was really interesting due to the clear, sunny weather. We left from a clouded Netherlands but the Thames corridor was clear of cloud cover till Reading and then From Swindon all the way to Bristol. As this was part of the area where I worked trains and have lived for thirty years I could clearly spot the various locations. What was strange, though, is how hard it is to find the Shard in London; perhaps because its glass reflects the surrounding neighbourhood? No pictures uploaded from the above trip as yet, so I added a few examples from my existing files.
Number one is a very well known steam locomotive in the UK, photographed while visiting the West Somerset Railway. It’s British Rail number 71000 “Duke of Gloucester”, a post-WWII British rail standard heavy pacific that should have kept the diesels at bay in its days. At the time, however, the machine appeared to suffer from shortage of breath when being pushed hard and it was taken out of service. But, like many steam locomotives ending up in the Barry, Wales, scrapyard, it was not scrapped for unknown reasons. Its left hand cylinder and Caprotti valve gearbox were taken off, sectioned and exhibited in the National railway museum at York, as was its cab. The rest of the hulk stood rusting quietly until it was taken in for a complete restoration to working order. Something of an epic nature that Brits have become quite good at: see also the story of the new construction of LNER A3 “Tornado” Pacific in this country. A discovery made whilst working on the Duke, however, was that the air intakes to the firebox were rather too small, not to specification. When in due course during restoration they were enlarged as specified, it turned out that the machine was no longer short of breath in any way. Theories as to the why of this phenomenon naturally blossomed, mainly to the extent that this had been done on purpose. She was not allowed to make operational mince meat out of the new diesel locomotives and make them look useless: who knows? Anyway, here is Duke of Gloucester with her unmistakeable rotating Caprotti valve gear linkage.
Picture two was made at Klaipeda station during a cruise in the Baltic, when we visited Lithuania. It is a powerful Soviet (Lithuanian) Railways class L two-cylinder 2-10-0/1’E, of which many hundreds were delivered. I recently read that it is in fact an American design (see those boxpok driving wheels), of which Baldwin apparently built quite a lot. Makes one wonder why these machines did make it to the Soviet Union of little Joe Stalin, but the General Electric “little Joe” electrics did not. Another odd thing is the rather small tender given the enormous distances in Russia. I did not find anything about longer distance versions with larger tenders.
Picture three is London, Midland and Scottish pacific number 6201 Princess Elizabeth in its LMS scarlet red livery, looking like it could do its bit in a pre-war Agatha Christie movie, especially departing with the detective from old Bristol Temple Meads as it does here. Her blower is working, as given away by the pillar of thin smoke from her single exhaust pipe chimney: she’s ready to start her train. A few things jar the initiated, though. To start with, the rear driven axle has the connection for a speedometer: not something that LMS as was bothered with, but the present day railway in the UK certainly does. More intricate are the pipes and drums in front of the left hand cylinder, between the bogie wheels. That never was there in the days of yore, as were the vacuum as well as air brake pipes at the buffer beam. What happened here is that the machine, originally only fitted with an exhauster for the vacuum brake, in the present day order had to be able to work with air-braked rolling stock. So, in order to gain its main line certificate, a steam-operated air compressor had to find a place where it did not immediately spoil the outline of this locomotive. And there it is, hidden in full view in front of the cylinder. The single white headlight on the footplate above the buffer beam indicates that a steam generator might be hidden somewhere, as does the Automatic Warning System receiver visible when going down to rail level from the well-polished left hand buffer. An impressive piece of kit, altogether. Too bad that plasticky sign with the station name. And oh yes, the red Mk1 carriage behind the loco should have ridden on the original Mk1 bogies/trucks, of course, not on the late 1960’s Mk4 British interpretation of the Swiss Schlieren bogie. Then again, the two appreciative gents, no doubt with a hefty Bristol accent, would do fine in the movie. I’m glad I quickly left the ticket office, where I spent my final days on the railway, to catch the loco before the hordes arrived.
Picture four is a wooden Great Northern Railway coach number 807, resplendent in its varnished teak livery. She’s used in a British Orient Express set, in fact seen here parked for Christmas specials at Stewart’s Lane carriage depot at Battersea, London, . She represents something I haven’t seen anywhere on the Continent so far: a wooden passenger vehicle certified to operate on main line duties and, no doubt given the hectic rail passenger traffic around London, at main line speeds. The only thing that gives away that this is not the year 1910 or so, is the electric equipment under the coach. That replaced one or two large gas tanks to feed the lighting. To the right the entrance doors of a Pullman vehicle. to the left a Mk1 service vehicle. But yes, this is the kind of vehicle that during historical accidents splintered to matchwood and then caught fire from burning locomotive coal that was fed by leaking Pintsch lighting gas tanks. I wonder whether you sign a disclaimer if you decide to travel in this vehicle?